dining

Make Mine Marcel’s

By Charley Varipapa, DDS

June 2008

Photo: Marcel's

When The Washingtonian and other foodies ask for my favorite D.C. restaurants, Marcel’s always tops the list. Its elegant, Old World decor and sharp staff (who seem to have eyes in the back of their heads) make Marcel’s one of Washington’s finest dining experiences.  Elegance, quality of ingredients and preparation with attention to every detail set Marcel’s apart from the rest. From your first contact with Adnane, Marcel’s polished and sophisticated maître d, you sense that this will be a special evening. How did he know it was you when you walked in the door?

Years ago I asked noted bon vivant Michael Tilch where to get the best service in Washington, and he said, “If you can’t go to New York, go to Marcel’s.” Michael was right and would be please to know that we no longer have to go to New York for superior service in a fine dining restaurant.  Marcel’s is also the choice of Washington’s Bon Vivant #1, Dr William Hall, whom I had the pleasure of running into again last year at his 1,000th dinner at Marcel’s. In a new world of deconstructed this and that, where food arrives in test tubes and foam, how refreshing it is to dine at Marcel’s where food is not only delicious but recognizable!  Sommelier Ramon Narvaez will help you select the perfect wine to accompany your meal.  He selected a beautiful Margaux for us that did not break the bank but was absolutely perfect with our meal.

The menu has changed slightly to a price fixed three-course theater menu, as well as five- and seven-course choices. The three-course theater menu is priced at $52 — such a great deal —and, if prearranged, includes a complimentary limo ride to the Kennedy Center!  Off menu is Chef Robert Weidemier’s signature roasted chicken, so delicious and so perfectly prepared to be the most flavorful and succulent chicken dish in Washington and the world! Once in a blue moon I can convince Weidemier to prepare it especially for me. I do not know his secret but can only speculate some form of witchcraft or magic goes into its preparation that Weidemier can never reveal lest he be turned into a toad.

The style of the restaurant is Belgian-French, as evidenced by exceptional renderings including mussels gratin and crab gateau, both elegant and delicious. Weidemier’s lobster bisque, caramelized chestnut soup and truffle essence celery root soup will have you shouting in the aisles! I have always marveled at Marcel’s signature boudin blanc and sweetbreads – perfectly prepared and each morsel a delight to the senses. I can honestly say that you just can’t miss at Marcel’s. Their menu has offerings of duck breast, veal, venison and seafood. You don’t have to import a chef from New York City to get squab and pheasant prepared as well as Marcel’s, which is cooked to perfection and served with fresh, complementary sauces. Did I mention the rabbit in an elegant brown sauce is so good you’ll want to skip the Kennedy Center and stay for more?

I have never met a lady who did not love Marcel’s. The hosts are charming and attentive, the wait staff meticulous about staying invisible yet accommodating during your food service, and the cocktails aren’t chintzy either. Gentlemen love Marcel’s, I believe, because it serves real food and not some scientific rendition of what some nut in Paris thinks is dinner, the chairs are comfy and, most importantly, the ladies are happy! Enjoy your dining at Marcel’s and visit their menu at www.MarcelsDC.com. Or e-mail me at charleyandbarb@gmail.com